Access Córdoba Three cities on the same ground.

The Journal

New writing about Córdoba: the Mezquita, the patios, the caliphal city, and how to plan around the heat

Salmorejo, and why Córdoba serves so much of its food coldSalmorejo, and why Córdoba serves so much of its food coldThe etiquette of walking into somebody's courtyardThe etiquette of walking into somebody's courtyardThe patios outside May, and what you miss by coming in another monthThe patios outside May, and what you miss by coming in another monthShade as infrastructure — how the old city is built against the sunShade as infrastructure — how the old city is built against the sunCórdoba with a train to catch: a three-hour route from the station and backCórdoba with a train to catch: a three-hour route from the station and backGetting to Medina Azahara: the shuttle, the site museum, and how long it takesGetting to Medina Azahara: the shuttle, the site museum, and how long it takesHow a caliphate collapsed in twenty yearsHow a caliphate collapsed in twenty yearsAverroes and Maimonides: what the city claims, and what it shouldAverroes and Maimonides: what the city claims, and what it shouldWhat the Almohad takeover did to the city, and who leftWhat the Almohad takeover did to the city, and who leftThe bell tower that was a minaret, and the habit of building around thingsThe bell tower that was a minaret, and the habit of building around thingsWhat spolia is, and how to spot it in the columnsWhat spolia is, and how to spot it in the columnsWhy the mihrab is off-centre, and what that tells you about the buildingWhy the mihrab is off-centre, and what that tells you about the buildingReading the four building campaigns as you walk southReading the four building campaigns as you walk southHow to see the Mezquita without the crowd, and what the free early window gets youHow to see the Mezquita without the crowd, and what the free early window gets you

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